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Tod’s Spring collection was designed by the label’s in-house team along the lines of an everyday urban wardrobe, rich in wearable, straightforward pieces. Dedicated to timeless Italian style, it was apparently inspired by the moody charm of actress Monica Vitti and her stylish charisma.

Light leather outerwear obviously played a prominent part: Au courant sporty bombers were given a sleek feel and paired with elongated culottes; slightly oversize dusters and overcoats in bonded leather or anaconda looked easy and unfussy. Slim day dresses had asymmetrical napa inserts and plays on pleats enhancing the movement, while fine, soft-tailored pantsuits retained a sharp-cut ’90s feel.

A few standout items kept the offer interesting, like a ponyskin tunic with a laser-cut macramé floral motif, and tie-dyed effects splashed on leather shirts and car coats. There were also zebra-print trenchcoats for a dash of vibrancy, which would have been welcomed in more substantial doses.

Tod’s exceptional savoir faire is a given: The craftsmanship is impeccable; the quality of the materials always top-notch; and the execution and detailing are flawless. The label is undoubtedly one of the standard-bearers of Made in Italy excellence. What is expected are well-designed, timeless investment pieces that will last a lifetime—nothing fancy, fashionable, or ostentatious. Yet stylewise, finding a point of difference is of the essence in today’s crowded fashion landscape; a cohesive, strong design vision with a distinctive tone of voice would help to effectively cut through the noise.